AME NOIR: Kvadrat- Rubia Spectrum

'120 / 7 rubia spectrum' by studio glithero for kvadrat

Rubia Spectrum 茜草色譜--乍看之下，這是一個看似一般的漸層染色沙發布料-方平組織 (Blanket weave) 在設計工作室 Glithero- 英國設計師 Tim Simpson 和荷蘭設計師 Sarah van Gameren的創作下，我被這樣自然但又實驗性的設計給吸引著。

Rubia, a miraculous organic red dye

茜草光譜是Kaadrat的一個新的專案，符合我們廣泛的原型(prototyping)開發工作，揭示美的創作過程。Hallingdal65 意味著使用大量的紡織長度作為一個實驗性的試條，研究並漸進染色，使用天然染料，色素稱為"茜草"。

茜草 Rubia image from Wiki

Rubia Spectrum for Kvadrat is a new project in keeping with our extensive prototyping work that lays bare and celebrates the beauty of the creative process. Working with Hallingdal 65 this approach meant using vast lengths of the textile as an experimental test strip, studying and showing the beauty of its gradual colouration using a natural coloring pigment called Rubia.

與顏料專業人合作中，我們沉浸在織物茜草的染桶裏，ㄧ種像是奇蹟般: 從茜草植物的根中提取的紅色染料，有機物，以固定間隔距離緩緩抬起。
漸變顏色的顯示時間的推移，漸層之美是設計過程中的一個階段，通常是留在藝術創作室。浸染的過程中還引入了一個新的圖層和顏色效果，容易上色卻也有自然的缺陷，與經過精心調色的Hallingdal織品作鮮明對比。

Working with a series of pigment specialists we immersed the fabric in a large drum of Rubia, a miraculous organic red dye that is extracted from the root of the Madder plant, before being slowly raised at regular intervals. The resulting gradient colour strip both reveals the passing of time, and pays homage to the beauty of a stage of the design process that is usually left behind in the artists workshop. The dip-dying process also introduces a new layer of colour, susceptible to chance and imperfection, that contrasts with the meticulously coloured Hallingdal textile.

茜草 Rubia 根部含有的酸 ruberthyrin的。通過乾燥，發酵或用酸處理，這是改變糖，茜素紅與紫色素，這是首次在1826年由法國化學家皮埃爾·讓Robiquet隔離。，紫色素通常是不著色，但在鹼性溶液中溶解後是紅色。與陶土混合，用明礬和氨處理後，給出一個燦爛的紅色發色劑（茜草湖）。The roots contain the acid ruberthyrin. By drying, fermenting or a treatment with acids, this is changed to sugar, alizarin and purpurin, which were first isolated by the French chemist Pierre Jean Robiquet in 1826. Purpurin is normally not coloured, but is red when dissolved in alkaline solutions. Mixed with clay and treated with alum and ammonia, it gives a brilliant red colourant (madder lake).